Why Vis Is Worth the Passage
Vis sits 45 nautical miles southwest of Split, further from the mainland than any other inhabited Croatian island. For four decades after World War II it was a Yugoslav Navy base, entirely closed to foreign visitors. That history explains why it looks nothing like the rest of Dalmatia: no resort hotels, no sprawl, no marina expansion that ate the old town. What came back after 1989 was an island that had been left alone long enough to remain itself.
The passage from Split takes seven to nine hours under sail depending on wind direction. It is the longest open-water leg on most charter routes, crossing through the channel between Hvar and the Vis archipelago. In the summer months the Maestral carries you southwest from midday onward. Arriving at Vis Town or Komiza in the late afternoon after a day's sail is one of the better experiences Croatia offers.
Note on distance: Vis is too far for an easy day trip from Split. Budget at least two nights on the island to make the passage worthwhile — three nights lets you visit Bisevo and still have time to explore properly.
The Blue Cave, Bisevo Island
Bisevo is a small island 5 nautical miles west of Komiza. The Blue Cave (Modra Spilja) is one of the most photographed natural phenomena in the Adriatic: a sea cave where reflected sunlight turns the water inside an electric blue. The effect works between approximately 10:00 and 12:00 on sunny mornings, when the sun angle is right.
Access is by small tender or water taxi only — the entrance is too low and narrow for a yacht. Charter boats anchor off Bisevo and take the tender in, or join a water-taxi excursion from Komiza. July and August mean queuing in the tender for 30–60 minutes. May and September the cave is often accessible within minutes. Visits cost around €15 per person; the national park fee is included.
While you wait, the anchorage off Bisevo has some of the clearest water in Croatia. Anchor in 6–12 m over sand on the northeast side of the island, west of Porat Bay. Holding is good and it is a pleasant lunch spot even if you are not visiting the cave.
Vis Town
Vis Town (Grad Vis) sits on the northeast coast in a protected bay. The main quay can take 20–30 yachts stern-to; there is also a small ACI marina at the western end of the harbour with around 120 berths. The town itself is a layered archaeological site: Greek colony, Roman bathhouse remnants, Venetian fortifications, Austrian barracks, British forts from the Napoleonic Wars, and Yugoslav military tunnels. No other town on the Dalmatian coast has quite this accumulation.
The wine is the other reason to stop here. Vis island produces Vugava, a white wine made from a grape variety that grows nowhere else in the world. The island also makes a notable Plavac Mali. Winery visits are possible if you contact ahead; several vintners accept visitors who arrive by boat.
Komiza
Komiza is on the west coast, facing the open sea toward Italy. It is a fishing town in the old sense — the same families have been catching bluefin and harvesting anchovies here for centuries. The anchorage off the town quay is exposed to southwest swell, so it is better as a lunch stop or a brief overnight in calm conditions. If you are spending more time here, the ACI Marina Komiza (40 berths) provides better shelter.
The food in Komiza is exceptional. The town has three or four restaurants that have been written about in every serious food publication covering Croatia. Book ahead if you plan to eat at Bako — the grilled fish and the local wine are the combination most sailors remember longest about the entire trip.
Best Anchorages on and Around Vis
| Anchorage | Depth (m) | Shelter | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rukavac (SE coast) | 4–10 | Good (NW–NE) | Beautiful clear water, good holding, restaurant |
| Srebrna (SE coast) | 5–12 | Moderate | Very clear water; exposed to S swell |
| Stoncica (NE) | 4–8 | Good (S–SW) | Lighthouse bay, peaceful, taverna in season |
| Milna (NE coast) | 4–8 | Good (W–NW) | Small village, easy walk to Vis Town |
| Bisevo (off Porat) | 6–12 | Moderate | Blue Cave access; beautiful water |
Sailing Conditions Around Vis
Vis is exposed enough that conditions can change faster than in the more sheltered north Dalmatian channels. The Jugo (south-southeast wind) can push 20–30 knots through the Vis channel with significant swell building from the open sea. Monitor forecasts carefully before an overnight anchorage on the south or west coast. The northeast and east sides of the island provide good shelter in Jugo conditions.
The Maestral (northwest sea breeze) is reliable from May through September, arriving around midday and building to 12–18 knots by mid-afternoon. This makes for excellent afternoon sailing between Vis and Hvar or back toward Split. The morning is often calm or has light variable winds.
Jugo warning: A Jugo building to Beaufort 5–6 in the open Vis channel creates steep, uncomfortable swell. Check forecasts on Meteoalarm and DHMZ 24 hours before departing for the outer anchorages on the south coast.
Provisioning on Vis
Vis Town has a supermarket with adequate provisions for a 3–4 day re-stock. Fruit and vegetables from the market stalls are excellent — the island's mild climate produces tomatoes and figs that are noticeably better than mainland equivalents. Fuel is available in the ACI Marina Vis. Komiza has a smaller shop but good fresh fish directly from fishermen at the quay in the early morning.
More Island & Destination Guides
Building a multi-island route? Browse the full destination guide library for anchorage details, sailing conditions, and charter tips for every major Croatian island.