Mljet National Park
Mljet National Park covers the western third of the island — about 5,400 hectares including the two saltwater lakes and the surrounding coastline. The park was established in 1960 and remains one of the most intact natural environments in the Mediterranean. Entry requires a ticket (around €20 per person in high season), paid at the park office in Polace or Pomena.
The island is covered almost entirely in Aleppo pine and holm oak. The scent of pine resin on a warm afternoon is noticeable half a mile offshore. According to Greek mythology, Odysseus was detained here by the nymph Calypso for seven years. Whether or not that particular story is accurate, the island does have a quality of enchanted seclusion that makes the mythology feel plausible.
Park entry: The national park fee covers access to the lakes and the island of St Mary. Boats anchored within the park boundaries also pay an overnight anchoring fee. Collect the park ticket from the warden who rows out to visiting boats, or pay at the office in Polace.
The Saltwater Lakes
Mljet has two connected saltwater lakes — Malo Jezero (Small Lake) and Veliko Jezero (Great Lake) — connected to the sea by a narrow channel. The water in the lakes is clear and warm, several degrees warmer than the open sea in the afternoon. Swimming in the lakes is one of the best swimming experiences in Croatia. The island of St Mary sits in Veliko Jezero and has a 12th-century Benedictine monastery that is still partially occupied.
Kayaks and bicycles are for rent at the lake shore. The circuit around Malo Jezero is about 4 km and takes under an hour on foot. The salt lakes are not accessible to charter boats directly — you anchor in Polace or Pomena and reach the lakes on foot or by the park's small shuttle ferry.
Polace — Best Anchorage on Mljet
Polace is the best anchorage on the island for charter boats. The bay is wide, sheltered, and has excellent holding. Several small islets in the bay provide additional protection. There are a few restaurants on the village quay — the one with the fig tree in the terrace is well regarded. Anchor in 4–10 m sand beyond the ferry dock and take the dinghy ashore.
The ruins of a Roman palace near the shore give the village its name. They are not extensively excavated but the setting is good — ancient stonework in a bay surrounded by pine forest, with yachts swinging at anchor in the foreground. Late September evenings here are difficult to improve upon.
Pomena and the Marina
Pomena is at the western tip of the island, the other main entry point to the national park. It has a small marina (around 70 berths), a fuel dock, and the only hotel on this end of the island. The marina is convenient but the bay is less atmospheric than Polace. Pomena is useful as a fuel stop or if you prefer a proper berth to anchoring.
The Eastern Island
The eastern two-thirds of Mljet outside the national park are less visited and less regulated. Babino Polje is the main village in the eastern section, set back from the coast in an inland valley. The coastline here has quieter anchorages than the park end, with less boat traffic and no entry fees. The channel between Mljet and the Peljesac peninsula is a good afternoon sailing run on the route toward Korcula or Dubrovnik.
Sailing Conditions Around Mljet
Mljet sits at the junction of the Mljet channel to the north (between the island and the Peljesac coast) and more open sea to the south. The Maestral fills from the west in the afternoon. The Jugo runs from the southeast and can create significant swell on the south coast — in Jugo conditions, the north coast and Polace Bay are well sheltered. The Bora comes from the northeast and can whistle through the Mljet channel at force 6–7 in strong episodes.
Getting There by Charter
From Dubrovnik the passage to Mljet is 28–30 nautical miles, roughly 5–6 hours under sail. The route passes between the Elaphiti Islands (Sipan, Lopud, Kolocep) and then west along the south side of Peljesac. Mljet is typically a second-night stop on a Dubrovnik-based charter — first night in Lopud or Sipan, second night in Polace, Mljet, then continue west toward Korcula or Lastovo. Going the other direction, Mljet is a natural stop between Lastovo and Dubrovnik on the southward return leg.
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